Adventure on Amorgos

More Greek island pics on Facebook page.

NOTE:  Tom has a story in this blog post, he’s a great writer, so please read through.  Please visit the Facebook page for photos & videos.

WordPress is giving me more challenge than I expected.  Meanwhile, you can view my first posts here at the BLOG page.

Amorgos Highlights– Please read Tom’s description below!

We have another high speed ferry ride, this time to the quiet island of Amorgos.  For some reason the Ferryhopper app will not print our boarding passes, so I had to find the correct office to print them.  Not sure if this is typical, but they charged me €4.

The ride is smooth and we are soon disembarking in Katapola, the main harbor town on Amorgos.  It’s an adorable, sleepy village, built around the harbor.  Several restaurants and a couple markets. Lots of vehicle rental places where people rent ATVs, scooters, motorcycles, and occasionally cars (although I wouldn’t advise driving here, the roads are narrow, mostly meant for donkeys, and the drivers can be crazy!).

Our host meets us at a harbor side market and along with his friend (who is a doppelgänger for Jonathan Nussbaumer) loads our bags into his minivan.  He says our lodging is only a minute walk up the stairs, but the drive takes 5 minutes, winding through fields and the narrowest road I’ve ever seen, ever upward.

We take the dozens of steps winding down to the harbor in search of dinner.  We decide on Youkali, a lovely spot with excellent food.  In fact we enjoyed the meal so much, we return the next night.

 

The next morning we perused the KTEL bus schedule to plan our trip to the monastery of Hozoviotissa, the second oldest monastery in Greece.  The bus to the monastery leaves our village at 4pm and the last bus back leaves at 6:35pm.  This gives us about 2 hours to climb and explore the monastery, which should be just right.

As we climbed the bus, we noticed the driver smoking.  So don’t be surprised if you smell cigarettes on a bus in Greece!  We enjoy the view as the bus climbs up the steep hills via switchbacks into Chora.  Then more switchbacks down to the monastery, where we are the only riders who exit the bus.

Did I mention how windy this day was?  Well, it’s a north wind and is blowing fiercely as we walk down the hill from the bus stop to the monastery parking lot, about 1/2 mile.  It’s important to note that there is a dress code to enter.  Men must wear pants and women must wear long dresses, all must have shoulders covered.  We are prepared, so start the 1 km stair climb to the monastery.  

It’s breathtaking.  The natural beauty of the rock face along with the artistry of mankind is simply awe inspiring.  Read more about this sacred location here.

Once we reach the monastery, there wasn’t an obvious entrance.  Tom climbs a few steps to find a tiny door that opens, we hear voices, so we enter.  More stairs and doors, built around and into the cliff wall.  A priest ushered us in to a room and brought refreshments.  We were treated as guests rather than visitors, even though we understood little of the conversation, amazed to be so welcomed there.

The walk back down is quick, then we start back uphill to await the bus in a tiny cube of a bus stop.  We wait 30 minutes.  The wind is picking up and the bus hasn’t arrived.  Phone calls for taxis are unanswered.  It’s starting to get dark, very dark since there are no lights at all and a new moon.  And it’s a very steep uphill for a long while and there is nothing to do but trudge.

Tom:

The walk back down is quick, then we start back uphill to await the bus in a tiny cube of a bus stop.  We wait 30 minutes.  The wind is picking up and the bus hasn’t arrived.  Phone calls for taxis are unanswered.  It’s starting to get dark, very dark since there are no lights at all and a new moon.  And it’s a very steep uphill for a long while and there is nothing to do but trudge.

Tom:

The pursuit of a conclusion that was unknown….  Is this what actual explorers experience?  It is a little scary and not very exciting.  There is only will to carry on with not much to hope for….  Then the unexpected.  With darkness deepening, another car begins the climb of the hill we are walking.  Our forlorn thumbs go out as we turn to face the “last” chance.

It stops.  It is a priest from the monastery.  He’s talking on his phone and doesn’t really acknowledge we are there…. We just get in.  He continues his conversation, it ends.  The priest says “Katapola?”  We happily agree, then he makes another call!  He speaks no English, so when this call is finished there’s not much left but silent gratitude.  Silence that speaks volumes.

The pursuit of a conclusion that was unknown….  Is this what actual explorers experience?  It is a little scary and not very exciting.  There is only will to carry on with not much to hope for….  Then the unexpected.  With darkness deepening, another car begins the climb of the hill we are walking.  Our forlorn thumbs go out as we turn to face the “last” chance.

It stops.  It is a priest from the monastery.  He’s talking on his phone and doesn’t really acknowledge we are there…. We just get in.  He continues his conversation, it ends.  The priest says “Katapola?”  We happily agree, then he makes another call!  He speaks no English, so when this call is finished there’s not much left but silent gratitude.  Silence that speaks volumes.

6 thoughts on “Adventure on Amorgos”

  1. I love reading about your adventures and it’s second best to being there. Although that gap is unfathomable I’m sure. I look forward to the book!!

  2. And then…..? I’m left to assume you spent the night as guests of the medieval looking monk! Now that’s an adventure not many have experienced….or maybe more than we imagine since the priest was so quick to offer a solution. Anxiously awaiting the next episode!

  3. Very mysterious….I’m intrigued. Is the white structure positioned against the cliff the monastery? If so, I hope you got to stay there. Enjoying reading about your adventures.

  4. What the hell happened, did the priest ever let you go? How long do you have to stay at the monastery? Is the food just bread and water or do they change it into wine?

    1. Well, the monastery was an archaeological phenomenon, and the priest, even though we couldn’t understand, was very talkative. I thought “you know what, I could join & live with this view”. Then I looked up the meaning of celibacy and said forget it! We were dropped off in our town, tried to buy the guy a drink but nobody sold sacramental wine. We exchanged blessings.
      Anyway, that might be why Bandon was so great to..& for you (didn’t ask anything for myself). And I know you never lie about ANYTHING regarding golf. Everything else is going great. We’re out of Athens, have a car and are in Meteora. Julianne will be catching everyone to current in short order. Thx for the envious Bandon photos.

  5. The photos and descriptions are excellent. I can envision being there with you. I am glad I didn’t have to climb all those stairs and wait in the dark for a ride that might not ever come. I can’t help but imagine the tremendous opportunity to be able to experience all the different cultures and people . I love your posts. Keep having an awesome time and be safe.🫶😘

Comments are closed.