<my musings>
Most of my life I lived with a sense of homesickness. I recall my first experience of this when our family moved from Louisiana to Oregon when I was a young child. I felt a deep sadness, a knot in my stomach, whenever I thought about my friends Kelly and Nanny-Boo, neither of which I’ve ever seen again. Even as an adult the niggling sense of loss persisted. I can say now that I have been looking for “Home” most of my life.
It sounds sappy and overly romantic, but true nevertheless, I found “Home” when I met Tom.
</my musings>
We leave Comporta Portugal wishing we’d had another night or two there. The house was very comfortable and we were able to relax and enjoy the space and the quiet. After an hour drive north, we stop to explore Óbidos, a small town of 3,100 located on a hilltop and encircled by a fortress wall.
We climb the stairs and start our city wall walk. Needless to say, this venture is NOT osha approved! The walkway is only three feet wide and NO wall or handrail on the inside. People are walking both directions, so of course I flatten my back to the walled side and let them pass me on the edge, fear of heights and all.
After this adventure, we stop for a beverage in a curious cafe selling Ginja, a cherry infused liquor, served in chocolate cups. Neither Tom nor Steve is interested in Ginja and I have a fresh lemonade, so let me know if you ever find it or try it. And for some reason unknown to us, there is a tree trunk situated diagonally through the cafe. FYI, the lemonade here is unsweetened, so it will pucker you up!
Each July Óbidos holds a traditional “medieval market” where the town recreates medieval Europe. Even today in May the trinket shops are filled with banners, chain mail, and the like. Óbidos is also famous for its many bookstores. There are 14 bookstores, one of which also sells fish. In 2015 UNESCO recognized Óbidos as the City of Literature due to its many bookstores. As for the book- fish store, I’m not certain if the fish are pets or dinner. In either case, Tom is grateful I didn’t want to visit this store.
Now we’re only another hour drive to Nazare, home of the largest wave ever surfed: 93 feet! Locals claim that Portugal tourism really started when American Garrett McNamera set the world record for largest surfed wave, then a measly 78 feet. The streets into town are especially narrow and confusing, but Tom handles it well and delivers us to Hotel Magic, a tidy boutique hotel just a couple blocks from the beach.
The next day we take the funicular up the steep hill to the old village. Here we meet one of the Nazare Seven-Skirted ladies and see lots of vendors and surprisingly, a Ferris wheel. Although we didn’t ride, I’ll bet the views were breathtaking. The surf museum was interesting, with an awesome display of the surfboards ridden by the best of the best.
That afternoon we walk along the miles long beach and find some perfect stones for skipping. Easily done with calm waters. I’m sure in the winter with the massive waves pounding the shoreline, skipping rocks is all but impossible. Later that evening Tom and I meet up with our new friends from Nuremberg. Karin and Stefan are visiting Nazare for the day so we enjoy their company for a nice meal followed by gelato, of course. One of our favorite things about travel is connecting with people from around the world, meeting fellow travelers. We enjoy an amazing sunset together.
Our last full day in Nazare we opt to take a day trip to the original college town of Coimbra. The University of Coimbra is one of the oldest universities in the world. Did you know most universities in Spain have a uniform? It’s an honor to be accepted and get your cloak. If you’ve watched any of the Harry Potter movies, you might surmise that J.K. Rowling was inspired by these uniforms.
We make the exhausting mistake of trusting Google Maps for walking directions and end up climbing the steepest stairway I’ve ever seen. And don’t even ask me how many stairs because I am too terrified to count. I am literally holding on to the *one* bannister with both hands. But we make it all the way up, primarily because it was too frightening to look back down. Kudos to Steve for making it up first!
After the StairMaster workout, we pass what seemed an oasis. The restaurant at the top of the stairs with an inviting shaded patio and cushioned couches beckon. We vow. to return after seeing the famous Coimbra library, which hosts bats to keep the books safe from other insects. Sadly our efforts to visit the cool library are dashed, since they were sold out for the day. Instead we explore the university courtyard, spotting cloaked students rushing about.
We meander back to our oasis and enjoy the scenery at Tias Carmella’s while attentive wait staff deliver our best meal yet. What could be better? They invite us to the rooftop for afternoon coffee where we enjoy one of the best views of Coimbra. Bonus, each coffee comes with a tiny scroll with words of wisdom. This place is also a hotel. I imagine the Sapientia Hotel is a very nice place to stay. If you’re ever in Coimbra, stop here and tell them we say obrigado!
The restaurant staff also encouraged us to see a Fado show in Coimbra, which is a more mournful version than what you might see in Lisbon. Coimbra Fado aficionados claim this is the place it began – although there is much speculation on how Fado originated. Some say it was Brazilian students who graduated and left, others claim troubadours sparked the serenades. Tom and I enjoyed the brief performance of authentic Coimbra Fado and mesmerized by the curious design of the Portuguese guitar. There is no doubt it is challenging to play, twelve strings each a different gage, twisted or tied in a unique fashion. No video or flash photography was allowed but I snuck a photo or two. How could I not?
<more musings>
The mournful Fado resonates with my core. I understand the loss of friendships as time passes. It isn’t something to fix or even to endure. It is a soul experience when something beautiful, loved, or amazing comes to an end. The sense of loss can be enhanced by music, art, or maybe even an understanding look. My Fado is already missing beautiful Portugal.
</more musings>
JUst WOnderrful
Gosto Muitu muitu de vaijar con voces!! as i imagine it all
Abrazo
You are a great storyteller!
Precisely I have seen most of the places myself 🤩 your sentiments about loss and friendship touch me deeply. I already looking forward to more stories …
Our new friendship is a special keepsake from our time in Portugal. ❤️