Barcelona: City of Contrasts

<my musings>

Twenty-eight thousand shuffling cruise ship tourists pour out of the seven cruise ships, flooding Ramblas, spilling over the small streets of the Gothic quarter, trickling into quaint shops, only to recede as sunset nears and the cruise ship dinner bell rings, leaving behind flotsam stained cobblestones and a frustrated city.

Despite the highly publicized anti-tourist protests of last summer, there is still the opportunity to connect with Barcelona.  In fact, I encourage you to approach with your best effort at Spanish.  Say hello.  Engage.  Be generous.  Be grateful.  Be curious.

</my musings>

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We opted for a guided tour of the city and Sagrada Familia.  It turned out to be a good choice.  Our guide drove us around the city, pointing out various landmarks and providing some historical background.

Some souvenir stores sell nothing but Caganers, figurines of a pooping man.  The Caganer symbolizes fertilizing the earth and ensuring bounty for the following year.  Apparently one of these little poopers is considered good luck, especially when placed in a Nativity scene, tucked away in a corner of course.  In Catalonia it is a tradition to have children find the hidden Caganer.  Many modern Caganers represent celebrities and authority figures, perhaps in an attempt to “right-size” those in authority.

Next we walked through the Gothic quarter and the El Born neighborhood before heading to Sagrada Familia.  Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, ever under construction, has massive sharpened spires of gothic architecture, softened by whimsical gigantic fruit.  Once inside, the sleek expansive cathedral seems more like a beautifully designed museum.  The light from the stained glass windows casts an otherworldly glow across the crowds.

Using a rainy day and lingering jet lag as good excuse to spend a lazy day avoiding the Easter weekend frenzy, our only outing is an early trip to the Picasso museum (I recommend going early to beat the crowd).  Siesta, followed by tapas and early to bed.  

Our hotel is The Moods Catedral, with an elevator the size of a phone booth.  The hotel is located on Placa de Ramon, on the edge of the Gothic quarter, next to the El Born neighborhood.  The Gothic Quarter is full of tourist shops (and tourists), but also full of ancient charm.  The El Born neighborhood seems to hold more European charm and artisan shops.  While our room is windowless, we are grateful, since the crowds are bustling and noisy and we’re have escaped here to regroup after exploring the city.   

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<more musings>

Catalonia separatists once bristled against national pride.  Although the movement has quieted, you can still see their flags hanging from balconies.  Rappers and gymnasts compete for attention in front of the Barcelona cathedral, which seems to be quietly judging.  Graffiti mars landscapes like all big cities, but the “artists” seem to respect the ancient stone walls by using storefront metal doors as their canvas.  The profane pooping man brings levity to the sacred Nativity scenes.  Gaudi’s severe Gothic spires are juxtaposed with gigantic fruit offerings.

If you’re open to her, the many contrasts of Barcelona have something to teach.

</more musings>

9 thoughts on “Barcelona: City of Contrasts”

  1. You beautiful friends !!!!!
    ‘ ENjoy la vieja y bella espana have a wonderful trip im already enjoyng it with you and wish i was there !

    Just in case
    My good friend Ester lives in DEnia by the ocean close to VAlencia
    and My step brother lives in VAlencia in case you want ill let them =know you are around
    BEsos Y abrazos
    Silvia

    1. Our travels will not take us near Valencia this trip. Ah yes..if only you were with us! Gracias Silvia. Abrazos a ti tambien.

  2. Again I am happy to vicariously enjoy your travels. Your musings and photos paint the scenes perfectly.
    Thank you for taking us along. We love you; be safe.

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