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Colds slowed us down for a few days and then having so much fun consumed more time. As a result, I have fallen behind in my updates. We left Germany to spend Christmas in Switzerland and are currently in Paris on New Years Eve. I will complete the chronicles, but maybe not from Europe.
Germany Part 1: Nuremberg
Leaving Innsbruck for Munich launches a frustrating travel day for us. Just getting to the train station from our apartment seemed to take too much effort. We try to get a taxi, but no one answers. Then we get to the stop just as the bus pulls away. Fortunately the manager of our apartment finally responded to my pleas for help and called us a taxi. At least it wasn’t raining but it was very cold. Our train to Nuremberg takes us through Munich where we change trains. At least we’re in a first class compartment. Until we get booted.
Remember in the last post we reported how first class train travel is definitely the way to go, particularly for longer trips. Well, I *did* buy first class seats. But what I didn’t know at the time is the train requires two separate purchases: one for the train trip and one for the seat assignment. That’s right, Deutsche Bahn, the German train provider, let’s you buy a ticket, even a first class ticket, without a seat. Apparently you can also purchase a seat reservation without a train ticket as well. It’s like ordering dinner in a restaurant and having to pay extra for a plate. C’mon, Deutsche Bahn!
Fortunately we find another empty compartment in first class, so not really a problem. I pull out my phone and launch DB Navigator, Deutsche Bahn’s mobile app, and purchase seats for the Munich to Nuremberg portion of the trip. At least we won’t get booted. But the first train is a little late so we now have to run (thank you carry-on-only!) to catch the train to Nuremberg and the first class carriage is all the way at the end. So we end up getting on a coach carriage and lug our suitcases through the train to reach our car. Bad choice! There is a block between where we got on and where our reserved seats are. So we end up sitting in coach on a crowded train going almost 300 kmh.
Side Note: It’s always easier to find your train car from the platform rather than inside the train. People are in the aisles, trying to get their luggage overhead, it’s crowded, and you cannot move quickly. Better to run down the platform, but don’t miss the train!
The good news, is that we arrive in Nuremberg and our hotel is only 5 minutes from the train station. It’s another tiny, tiny room. A quick walk through the crush of shoppers at the Christmas Market and we’re both ready to retreat to the hotel. So many people! I guess we’ve been in smaller cities and towns for a while.
Side Note: Did you know in many parts of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland they celebrate Christmas gift giving from the Christkindl, not Santa Claus?
The next day is one of the best part of our trip: connecting with people. Today we are reconnecting with a wonderful woman we met while on our honeymoon in Fiji on Matangi Island. Christin told us about the international dateline crossing Fiji where she eventually took our photo.
We meet Christin and Bert, her significant other) in the lobby and head out for a day of site-seeing, conversation flows as if we just saw each other last week instead of 4 1/2 years ago. We walk up to the castle. Yep, another long uphill walk. I’m not sure the view at the top is worth it, but the companionship definitely is. We stop for the traditional hot wine and fortunately they have a non-alcoholic version for me.
The Durer House is a good choice for a glimpse of Nuremberg in the early 1500s as well as the household of an artist. Albrecht Durer was a German painter, printmaker, early book illustrator. He was a friend to Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci and became quite wealthy and famous in his lifetime. Durer did a couple of late 1400 selfies. Reportedly he was quite vain and curled his hair. As you can see in the self portrait, he had lovely locks.
Lunch is at a bustling cafe along the Pegnitz River. Right away we hear a tray of glasses crash, then again about five minutes later and I wonder aloud if we stumbled into a Greek wedding.
Fortified, we venture back through old town to the train station where Christin and Bert team up to navigate the train and bus station. Tom and I agree this level of complexity is above our pay grade. We end up at the Nazi Party Rally Grounds, a sobering experience. Bert explains the layout of the “Congress” and how it now serves as a monument, more a reminder, of what happened. The area is huge and must have inspired such fear to see Hitler’s forces assembled. So the Allies needed to both raise an American flag over the giant swastika then also bomb it from above, doubly annihilating the Nazi symbol and assembly point. We stood at the platform where Hitler addressed his forces and looking out there is no trace of the furer. Instead a Cirque de Solei tent is aglow with lights for the evenings performance next to a lake, beautiful and still, while the sun sets. We whisper a quiet “f#*$ you” to Adolf.
Again, Christin & Bert navigate the transit system and soon we are at the Golden Posthorn for a delicious and traditional German meal. Afterward we bid farewell to Bert and arrange to meet Christin for a guided walking tour the next day. The tour is interesting, but not as interesting as Bret’s explanations of the city. Christin is also leaving from the train station, so she comes with us to ensure we are on the right platform and all set to board. What a good friend! We share many hugs and make Christin promise to come and visit us. I really hope she does!
P.S. Many thanks to Christin & Bret for showing us around.
Happy New Years! Looks like you are still having an amazing time! Look forward to seeing you home soon and hearing firsthand your faves! Love you 🫶
Love seeing pics of many places in Nuremburg that I saw on my trip. And can definitely relate to the train challenges, especially hauling luggage, but creates new memories that you will eventually laugh about (I hope). Happy New Year!!
Oh boy… I would definitely be at a loss trying to navigate their train system. I’m glad you found people to help you and Tom.
The city of Nuremberg looks beautiful now after such a horrible past. Must be so intense to be there and experience the history.
What is the temp this last week of travels? It has been cold here in Oregon