After another delicious breakfast at our hotel in Dublin, we taxi to pick up our rental car out near the airport. Since driving on the left is the mode in Ireland, I opt for an automatic. I learned to drive when I was 13 on a stick shift; however, in the US we drive on the right and I learned using my right hand to shift. I can’t imagine trying to shift with my left while remembering to drive in the left lane with a steering wheel on the right. That’s simply too much muscle memory to overcome!
Right away, WAZE takes us on a circuitous route skirting Dublin through Phoenix Park and side roads that are very narrow. Only twice did I hit the curb on the left trying to be sure I was over far enough when we encountered traffic. Finally we achieve bigger lanes, roundabouts and eventually the M50 motorway. Whew!
Kilkenny is a medieval village about half way between Dublin and Kinsale and worthy of a stop for lunch, if not more. We get a lucky parking spot for starters and The Kyteler’s Inn doesn’t disappoint. We have a modest lunch and learn about Alice Kyteler, who was accused of being a witch. She escaped and the rest of her story is unknown (where is Paul Harvey when we need him?), sadly not so for her handmaiden. Sated and learned, we enjoy walking along the historic Medieval Mile, lined with quaint shops.
Back on the road to Kinsale, we encounter a road construction detour and then an accident which all add to our arrival time, dangerously close to being too late. Not to fear, our gracious hosts Grainne & Paddy Byrne text us that all is fine. We reach the cute town and adorable Bread & Breakfast, The Desmond Townhouse, which is most accurately described as “bespoke”. They have four well appointed and quiet rooms with all you need. It’s recommended in Rick Steves book for a reason and we wholeheartedly agree with Rick. Desmond Townhouse is popular for a reason! Also, Grainne’s scones are delectable and she decorates the breakfast room beautifully. Did I mention her scones? I ate mine before thinking to snap a pic. So good!
At breakfast in the morning we encounter other US travelers. One couple is taking a city walking tour which is recommended by our hostess Grainne as well as Rick Steves, so we choose to join. Great choice! Our guide Barry Moloney leads an engaging, humorous tour through the streets, sharing stories of the city’s past. In recent years Kinsale has been vying for the title of Tidiest Town in Ireland. It’s so cute and colorful I’m sure they’ll win the contest next year. Melanie even found the door for the “wee folk”.
Barry tells us loads about Kinsale, from the siege of 1601 to their tax codes from the 1780s (painted on the wall of the town Marketplace). He claims there are at least a couple tax loopholes. I couldn’t find them, can you? A favorite tidbit for me was learning that Bandon, Oregon (treasured among golfers) was named by Irishman George Bennett, who claimed the southern Oregon coast reminded him of his beloved Bandon Ireland. At the end of our tour we end up buying Barry’s new book about Kinsale. He’s been inspired by Rick Steves, hoping to become a full on travel writer. I’d say he’s on his way! After the walking tour, we pop in to Wild & Tame, a coffee shop run by Grainne’s daughter. I order a “flatly”, elsewhere known as a flat white.
In the afternoon, we meet Dana, running the gorgeous store selling her husband Danny Albu’s leather crafts, mostly stunning purses. Such incredible craftsmanship tempts us inside to explore. We have a nice conversation with her and I buy a cute little bag. Dana even gifts Melanie a beautiful green bracelet. Have I mentioned how friendly and welcoming everyone seems?
That evening we venture out for a delicious beef stew and listen to the locals crowing over their lead over the US in the Ryder Cup. On our way back to our rooms, we are so distracted by musical frolicking our Irish DNA is engaged and wander in to Cronin’s. Such laughter and dancing lights up the Saturday night, the joy is contagious the way joy should be. I’ll try to post a video of the festivities. Let me know if you can see it!
After another incredible breakfast, we say our farewells to Grainne & the other guests and begin our drive to Kenmare for a one night stay. While I get more practice on the narrow roads of Ireland, we are both surprised and amused when we come across a sign that announces “Road Bowling”. A small gathering of locals and a competition underway. I wish I had stopped and observed for a bit. Apparently this is a sport in Ireland, and quite competitive. Yet another lighthearted Irish pastime.
Once we check in to our lodging, we explore the cute town and end up shopping in Weavers of Ireland while the owners are being serenaded. Later we find they are a mother-daughter team running the store. More Irish connection and friendliness.
I’m starting to get the hang of the driving and good thing, since tomorrow I’ll be driving the Ring of Kerry and it takes most of a day. Who knows, maybe we’ll come across another Road Bowling competition?
More great travel news! The video does work; at least it did for me on my desktop. Thanks for posting the map; that’s super helpful. What are the 2 round green patches (?) that look like a coat-of-arms? Thanks for taking time to write! And Congrats on mastering left-side driving!!
Those are two coasters with my names and the associated coat of arms for each.
Quinn & Byrne
The driving isn’t as daunting as I’d expected, but maybe because I grew up driving small country roads.
Side note: if I see a sign for road bowling again, I’m definitely stopping!
Love your descriptions of Kinsale – so quaint and inviting. You and Melanie are the best ambassadors of good will, making friends every where you go!! The map shows Dingle as a stop after the Ring of Kerry – there are some fabulous music pubs there!!
Thank you for your beautiful words
We had some fun and good food at a few pubs in Dingle. Such a lively bunch!