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The Lovely Island of Korcula
Our ferry from Dubrovnik is nearly empty, which bodes well for our desire to avoid crowds. The price for this, however, could be fewer restaurants and shops open, especially since we’re staying in Vela Luka, on the far (west) side of the island. We’ll see….
Our ferry docks at the port of Old Town Korcula and we easily find our transfer, the kind and helpful Natalie, who tells us about her home and family. It’s clear she loves it here and it’s easy to see why. The terrain is both rocky and verdant. Walls made with flat slate like rocks, criss cross the lands, indicating property divisions, current or ancient.
Natalie helps us to our room in the lovely Boutique Kastel Ismaeli, which is spacious and comfortable. The location is great, right on the boardwalk, with views of the harbor and the sea. Since November 1st is a national holiday in Croatia, most everything is closed, but we find Alfa is open and have delicious pizza!
The next day we chat up the owner of the hotel, Nevenko Zurela, who tells us some history of our rooms. Apparently we’re staying in a small castle (Kastel Ismaeli), built in the 1500s by the Ismaeli family, who also built the large castle/palace in Korcula Town. In fact, Kastel Ismaeli was built before the tiny Saint Vincenca. The Kastel, or “mini castle”, was passed down through generations of the Ismaeli family until the last heir. This elderly man was tended to by Nevenko’s mother until he passed away in 1998. Generously and appropriately, he bequeathed the property to her. In 2018, the property was given an update, modern but still whispers of the ancient Kastel. Also, we learn the President of Croatia has stayed here – in the same room we’re in! Of course, the rest of the rooms were filled with his security team.
Attempting to navigate in our rental car to Korcula Town, I realize that my cellular service has disappeared. Fortunately for us, it’s a pretty easy road to town, where we find a bar with Wi-Fi, so I can connect and contact Verizon to resolve the issue. It was a challenge, since the international help number was not easy to find, but I was eventually able to restore cell service.
Tech note: even if you set up your international plan before leaving, you can still have an issue. I strongly encourage you to take a photo with the phone of the number for international support and maybe some backup support numbers too.
Like a mini Dubrovnik, but very quiet, we enjoy a leisurely exploration of Old Town. It’s definitely off season now, as we seem to have the entire town to ourselves. The labyrinth of alleys reveal churches, museums, and strange doors, some with no steps and one with a keyhole at the bottom of the door. Can you imagine trying to unlock after a late night out?
Armed with google maps, we set off to find one of the vineyards Nevenko told us about. We drive through a town called Cara and see loads of olive harvesting underway and a few signs for vineyards. We end up on a narrow farm road, driving through olive groves. It’s beautiful, but we’re hoping not to encounter another vehicle, because there is absolutely NO room for two way traffic. We wind up in the village of Brna, but nothing seems to be open.
We continue driving along the coast to Priskbo, an upscale vacation spot where at least three cranes are employed building mansions or hotels on the hillside. We drive past Blato, back to Vela Luka, but never did find a vineyard.
Our last full day on Korcula greets us with a big storm, flooding over the boardwalk and up to the doors of the buildings. The harbor seems to churn and moored boats are jostled as if at sea. The winds are strong, but it’s still warm. After finding out about the Blue Cave up the hill overlooking Vela Luka, we take the challenge (of course!) and begin the climb. The path up is well marked but very steep. There are markers along the way identifying various plants and trees, and it’s a nice excuse to take a breather and learn about them.
In the morning we pick up our freshly washed clothes from Linda’s Laundry and pack up, keeping our fingers crossed for calmer seas than yesterday. Natalie delivers us from Vela Lula back to Old Town to catch the ferry and we’re relieved to see the seas are calm again.
Whew! Next up, a ride to Split, where the ferry posts this sign.
Oh my goodness, what lovely photos. Looks like you have had a lovely stay.
My cousin had a restaurant in Korcula. I vividly remember how beautiful the boardwalk was at night as we sat for dinner.
It looks like Korcula is even more delightful and certainly worth a visit.
I look forward to your post from Split!!
Dovidenja😊
Oh my goodness, what lovely photos. Looks like you have had a lovely stay.
My cousin had a restaurant in Korcula. I vividly remember how beautiful the boardwalk was at night as we sat for dinner.
It looks like Korcula is even more delightful and certainly worth a visit.
I look forward to your post from Split!!
Dovidenja😊
Wow! Your room looks so nice!
I’m wondering if the raised doors have something to do with the rainwater flooding thru the town often?
Loved your funny picture of trying to climb up to reach the thresh-hold😂