Porto & the Douro Valley

<my musings>

One thing the US has is more space.  Homes, shops, restaurants are all spread out farther than they are in Europe.  At home, we get in the car and drive a mile or more to the grocery store.  Here in Europe we go out the door, walk a block or two to the “Mercado”.

I walk at home, not as much as some of my friends, like the 76 girls, but some.  While traveling Europe I walk.  Lots. And lots of stairs too.  This is how I justify enjoying a dessert most every evening and still end up dropping a few pounds each trip. 

</my musings>

Porto!  The biggest city we’ve seen in a while.  It’s bustling here and the drivers speed and honk and don’t usually stop for pedestrians so be careful!  Our lodging is a centrally located two bedroom apartment just a half block from Mercado do Bolhao.

Early the next morning we set off for an all day tour of the Douro Valley with a small group with A Day In Douro tour.  WOW!

Our driver Luis arrives in a luxury van and we pile in with two other couples:  Sam & Dan from London and Jacklynn & Tom (Bonus Tom) from Florida.  We make easy connections and share stories about travels.  After a couple hours driving on roads, winding uphill, we arrive in Pinhão.  Luis directs us to a boat launch and we spend an hour floating down the Douro river taking in the breathtaking landscapes and enjoy some snacks.  The guide pours wine for everyone and juice for me.  

The next stop is a spectacular viewpoint where we all take even more photos of the steep hills etched with terraces of grapevines.  The landscaping is unusual and it’s beautiful design has purpose, preventing erosions and improving sunlight exposure.

We motor on to a small family winery Quinta do Beijo.  The owner, Joao Monteiro, gives us a tour of his facilities and gives lessons about different Portuguese wines with much hilarity and a sharp tongue.  More wine is poured and, again, I get juice and a bit of ribbing for not drinking wine.  (Side note:  some of you may know I do not drink.  I have nearly 40 years of recovery, but in this case I simply say I’m allergic.  They don’t need to hear my story).  During the tour Steve gets to climb inside a wine barrel.  No, it wasn’t full when he started.  Such a unique experience!

Next Luis delivers us to our lunch destination, another small family vineyard where we enjoy a delicious homemade lunch with the others in our tour group along with a very rowdy stag party.  Luis shows off his wine bottle opening and pouring skills.  Thankfully I am finally rewarded with my own carafe of tonic water and lemon.   Very elegant and thoughtful!

Before we head back to Porto, we enjoy sitting poolside, engaging conversation, cooling our toes, and basking in the unforgettable landscape.  Back in Porto, we all agree this is our favorite day and we are SO glad we decided on this tour.  If you’re ever in Portugal, I highly recommend Manuel and Family for a Day in Douro tour.

On our way back to our lodging we stop at a wine bar, I guess because it’s a wine day (and tonica for me!).  The steel girders are all marked up with previous customers names and other assertions, most in languages I don’t understand.  But I am compelled to write my website’s name:  www.meanderingwonderful.com.

I egg Tom and Steve on to make their marks as well.  I’m the only one who stands on a barstool to accomplish my signage.  The benefits of sobriety. 

On Steve’s last day we wander the streets of Porto seeing all sorts of strange buildings, monuments, stores and street vendors then end up at the bridge.  The view across the river is expansive but we’ve worked up a thirst.  We choose a promising street cafe and we’re not disappointed.  The focaccia at OsteriaPorto is so light and airy we decide to make a reservation for dinner.  No visit to Porto is complete without a visit to the Lello Bookstore, the most beautiful bookstore in the world.  It’s €10 to enter, but the money goes toward any book you purchase.  The inside of Lello is completely magical.  I choose a tiny Lello Edition book and ogle at the staircase and the little balcony.  It’s all quite whimsical.

We enjoy a beverage and some people watching while a street musician has the rare combination of a good set list and talent.  Later we walk back to our dinner reservation and have a really good meal sharing burrata cheese, pepperoni pizza, and spaghetti Al’amatriciana.

In the morning we stand waving farewell to Steve and thank him for joining us in Portugal.  “haste la vista, baby”!

Our last day in Porto we opt for a one hour tuk tuk tour.  Our guide zips around the city, taking us to all the great views.  We ask him to drop us at the Crystal Palace Gardens.  We stroll the grounds that seem to go on and on, until we enter the Peacock Zone.  All the males are strutting and the females are mostly just ignoring them, not unlike the days of disco.

<more musings>

Evening almost always take us to gelato.  This is some new form of sweet, creamy gravity.  Tonight my cone is the prettiest serving of gelato ever.

</more musings>

2 thoughts on “Porto & the Douro Valley”

  1. ShawnA Nussbaumer

    Oh my goodness Julianne, breathtaking views and your writing is capturing the moments so eloquently. What a great joy for me to share this adventure through your journalling! Safe travels home my friend.❤️
    Shawn’A

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