The Ring of Kerry & Dingle Town. Just the sound of that brings thoughts of magical landscapes, elvish mischief or wee folk. We start out from Kenmare after filling up the gas tank at an old time gas station. They definitely have antiquated gas pumps. Unfortunately they have 2025 prices.
Our drive starts easy and we decide to stop whenever we see something that beckons. I’m not sure why we stop at this place.
Maybe because I think it reads “Oh well” instead of “Holy Well”. Don’t you think a Holy Well should have more proper signage?
Later we stop in the small town of Sneem just because it looks so cute. We step into Kelly’s for a coffee and a tea and meet the owner. She tells us she was born in an upstairs room. I wonder if she’s any relation to my life long friend Lynnette (née Kelly). Hi Lynnette!
Back on the road fueled by hot beverages, we resume our road trip now on the lookout for more Road Bowling. Instead we find so many magnificent viewpoints and each attempt at photos results in hair blown wild but we still try. Here is the map of our drive today:
We stop in the harbor town of Portmagee. Don’t you love the sound of these towns? They’re especially lyrical when pronounce by locals. Then we realize we missed the turn off for the Cliffs of Kerry. I reroute the destination into WAZE and head off, turning onto a very rural road. Then we pass a barn where a farmer gives us a puzzled look. Soon the road is gravel, grass in the center but WAZE is still telling us to go on. Here is the moment of technology fail. Fortunately we haven’t trusted the tech too completely and after a quick survey of what the road ahead looks like, I make the decision to turn around. When we pass the farmer again I can’t even look, sure he’s laughing at the silly tourist ladies. Here is the way the road transitioned for us:
Back on two lanes (well, really it’s more like 1.5 lanes) we easily find the turnoff for Cliffs of Kerry. It’s €5 each to park and walk up to the cliffs. The view is SO worth it! Photos hardly do justice, but we try. A fog bank moves in over the Skelligs rendering them shrouded mystery but the view north is mostly clear.
Later we have a little picnic and get back on the road to Dingle, stopping briefly at the disappointing Kerry Bog Village. For €14 we saw a rundown display of thatched roof cottages, two lonely wolfhounds, and some disinterested bog ponies. If you are a millennial or have kids or grandkids who are millennials, ask them about Homestar Runner’s Trogdor the Burninator (he burned the thatched roof cottages). I know about this silliness since Melanie was in middle school during the Homestar Runner fad. Sadly, the Bog Village isn’t worth the stop, maybe not even for Trogdor.
Further down the road, we stop at Inch Beach and watch a couple of gliders land on the beach. The vista west across the Atlantic is breathtaking. It makes my heart wish for home.
We arrive in Dingle and land the best parking spot, right in front of of our lodging: the Barr Na Sraide Inn. Cute and homey, maybe a tad overpriced. The rooms could use an update and if you have mobility issues, you definitely want to find another place to stay. There are no elevators and the doors and hallways are quite narrow. But everyone is so friendly and kind it makes up for it.
The first night we attempt dinner at the Dingle Pub, but it’s packed already with folks eating and listening to the ubiquitous “trad” music, traditional Irish music. So we opt for the quieter pub next door. The next day is a much needed break from driving for me as I’m fighting off allergies or something. We decide to try the Rick Steves recommended walking tour of Dingle. We stop in to the Hares Corner for an artistic cuppa, watch fishermen repairing a net, and take in the vibe of this town. We’re both loving Dingle.
The second night we get in to the Dingle Pub and it’s quite a sensory overload, but a very fun experience. Afterward we walk to the notorious Murphy’s, with ice cream flavors right out of Salt & Straw back home. I had the lemon curd & butterscotch while Melanie had Kieran’s cookies & butterscotch. Delicious!
Next up: another driving day. This time we take on the Sleah Head Loop.
Loving your blogging as always! Not sure I could do the driving but would sure like to visit Ireland. Your blog is next best thing!
Thanks Deb, glad you’re enjoying the blog. Driving isn’t as scary as you’d think. I’ll bet you’d be fine. 😎
This blog was wonderful, the WAIZ malfunction and narrowing road business was hilarious! Thanks for sharing Julianne! S.
Oh my gosh, Shawna, I thought we were lost in Brownsmead!
You and Melanie have kept your sense of humor – you fit in!! Love the descriptions of the “tourist traps” – we all have them. Dingle Town is a great memory for us. Thank you
It sounds like you are nearly absorbed into the Irish country scene. Keep moving or green moss begins to grow just behinds the ears. I’ll barely be understandin’ ya by your return. But wantin’ to see ya is fer certain. And may I will have a “trad” for you.
No need to check behind these ears, I’ve hardly stopped driving since we left Dublin! And I’m very nearly ready for a “trad” song from Oregon. Kisses from the Emerald Isle.
Driving in Ireland is great sport, especially on one-and-a-half lane roads! We stopped at the Cliffs of More for the tremendous view, but fog was so dense we saw nothing at all! No charge since it was fogged in. Keep up the fun travels – your comments are great.
We were sad to miss the Cliffs of Moher due to the big storm, but glad we didn’t get blown off into the sea! At least we saw the Kerry Cliffs. The fog on Conor Pass was quite dense, so my fear of heights was surpassed by my fear of the unseen.