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Thankful for Sorrento
After leaving Luca’s Mailboxes Etc. store in Rome, we got to the train heading to Sorrento. It seemed crowded, but everything was crowded in Rome. The train ticket app said platform 10, but the depot departure screens didn’t list a platform. That’s when we noticed some kind of alert. iTranslate to the rescue. I was able to discern there was a stalled train on the high speed rail, and all trains heading south were being rerouted. This explains why the depot was so crowded. About an hour later the platform for our train to Naples appeared. We had watched a video showing the transfer in Naples to the little train company that shuttles to Sorrento, so that was an easy switch. I highly recommend the website: guy in seat 61. It has all the train information you could possibly need for pretty much anywhere. But that train to Sorrento is more like a bus. Not at all comfortable, but we were able to get to Sorrento, so that’s a good thing. It’s already dark and starting to sprinkle, so we drag the bags 10 minutes across the cobblestones to our hotel. Even though Sorrento has cobblestones like the rest of the towns, at least it’s mostly flat.
The Grand Hotel La Favorita is stunning, almost over the top, both staff attentiveness and the lobby decor. The room is as nice as you would expect.
Someone from somewhere had mentioned a pizza place, so off we went looking. After we’re pizza-sated, we start our stroll back to the hotel and it starts pouring rain…Oregon style! I lurch into a shop that actually has umbrellas, so I buy one. Not a big umbrella, nor actually even a good umbrella. What do you expect for €4? But it worked. At least for me. I tried to cover Tom also, but he still got about half wet. The €4 umbrella ends up being used a few more times in Italy, definitely got €4 worth out of it.
The next day we enjoy our first breakfast at the hotel. They don’t hold back. Anything you could want they made. I knew lemons are a big deal in Amalfi region, but everything about Sorrento seems lemony and bright. The lemon trees and bright yellow buildings are not phased by the previous days’ rains.
We took a train, 30 minutes later we were at the Herculaneum Excavation site, exploring the ruins.
Brief history note: When Vesuvius first erupted in 79AD, it destroyed Pompeii. Most Herculaneum residents fled, but not all. The next day came the pyroclastic surge at 100 miles an hour. The remaining 300 waiting at the boat houses for rescue didn’t have a chance. Due to the Nature of this volcanic surge, some of the city contents were preserved intact. The tile work and frescos still in place, as are the bones of many.
Upon return to Sorrento, we’re reminded that it’s off-season here, since it wasn’t easy to find an open restaurant. But then again many stores and restaurants close just in the afternoon and reopen at 7 or 7:30 PM. No matter, many times it felt like we had the city all to ourselves, which was just fine by me!
A ferry ride to Capri for Thanksgiving was nixed due to choppy seas, so we opted to take a bus to Positano along the Amalfi Coast. Tom was brave and sat by the window, while I mostly just peeked between my fingers. I’d never want to drive that road, nor would I recommend anyone driving it, particularly during the summer months when it’s packed. The journey is such an incredible experience and view, well worth a bus ride or even a hired private car.
Positano, has a smattering of tourists, a handful of souvenir shops still open, but no restaurants. We worked our way down to the small beach and skip rocks, because that’s what we do. We lucked out and found a wine bar that served a couple of snacks. Just like Thanksgiving at home, we nibbled on olives to hold us over until the evening meal, unable to load them on our fingers like kids, since these had pits.
Christmas decorations are well underway in Sorrento. In fact it seems everything is covered in lights, but the arrangement are not lit up until December 8th, Feast of Immaculate Conception. I would have loved to have seen the city aglow. So keep that in mind if you’re planning a trip to Italy in December.
One of the few restaurants still open, also highly recommended by our hotel, and now by us, is L Antica Trattoria. We make our way to celebrate and have a meal worthy of Thanksgiving. Our waiter apologizes for not having a “ big chicken” for us.
This place was an excellent choice! Tom’s entree was a plated work of art. The photo below is from their website. What we were served looked even better, if you can believe that. Mashed potatoes shaped to look like a pear. And lemon whipped cream is my new favorite thing. Why did I leave my phone back at the room?
We check out and are surprised by a lovely”breakfast” the hotel packed for us. Now we have a big travel day ahead, as we make our way to Matera, a curious city of caves.
So happy you enjoyed Sorrento as much as I did 60 years ago and Herculaneum was mind boggling! Really? they had toilets just like ours?
You’re certainly remaining necessarily flexible, able to pivot at a moments notice! You’ll never be described as “codgy” Americans. A gorgeous hotel is your reward — what a find!
xxoo
The ruins, mosaics, frescoes were amazing indeed; and they haven’t really improved the toilet in 2K yrs? We have been hitting a moving target with our destination choices for which we’re both thankful. “Planning” it all included the occasional zag. Xox
That hotel is beyond gorgeous, what a great find! Sounds like you are having so much fun, I’m enjoying your trip so far myself 😊 Of course we missed you on Turkey day that’s one day of the year I can count on usually seeing you!! Well continued safe travels, much love
All the seeing and enjoying barely makes up for the “missing”, but we’re doing our best. Wish you had a blog we could follow about Ryder & PDX; it would be hilarious. Thx for staying in touch. We look forward to some virtual Holiday time & when we get together & try to remember all of this!