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A Few Nights in Split
We actually stayed one night in Split before our side trip to Bosnia. We liked it so much we decided to stay 4 more nights before leaving Croatia.
We found Heritage Hotel Antique Split to be one of our favorite lodgings so far. When we arrived (the first time) Daniella met us at the ferry and insisted on rolling my bag to the hotel. Across cobblestones. Uphill. Half a mile. And that is how welcoming this hotel was. The accommodations and view were on par with the hospitality, and it seemed like we were the only guests.
The hotel is situated right next to the church and tower and fortunately updated with sound muffling windows, and easy access to everything in the palace. That’s right, we were in a palace. The Roman emperor Diocletian built a huge palace here at the end of the 3rd century AD. It was really more of a fortress than palace and comprises about half of Old Town Split. Like most ancient rulers, he may have been a bit of an arrogant jerk, but you can decide on your own. The entire area is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Finding a balanced diet in Bosnia and Croatia had been a bit of a challenge. Fortunately for us, the hotel has breakfast included and chef Sonia is very talented and will make whatever breakfast you want and everything is delicious. My favorite was her Overnight Oats. I raved about it everyday, trying to figure out what her topping was. Finally, she brought me in a jar of “biscuit butter” which is her secret ingredient (no longer secret).
Split was a nice spot for us to take it easy, some rain but not too cold. One day we walked to the Marjan Garden, which is worth the many steps to see the panoramic view of the harbor and Old Town. I’ve included some photos of typical streets inside the palace. For anyone who has been to Split during warmer months, the empty streets will seem strange. During tourist season, the streets will be packed until the wee hours. November is quiet.
Another day we rode the bus 30 minutes to nearby Trogir for €2, where we enjoyed walking the small town and trying to get lost in the alleys. This time of year much of the town is closed down, but it’s also probably fun in the summer. We walked along the harbor and saw loads of sailboats and had a nice lunch at Vrata o’grada and enjoyed people watching, for all 6 people there.
The next day we decide to spend the day seeing the sites close to our hotel: the Game of Thrones museum, the cathedral, and the bell tower. The climb up the bell tower was my favorite, although a challenge for anyone with a fear of heights. When we got to the top, we watched two young men hanging the Croatia flag for Remembrance Day November 18, to honor those sacrificed in the Homeland War 1992-1995. November 18, 1991 was the day Vukovar fell, after being besieged for months, outnumbered 1,800 Croatian reservists and police to 36,000 Yugoslav People’s Army. A somber day, but important to Croatians and their fierce independence.
The next day we walk around Old Town, killing time until we leave for our flight, when I heard beautiful harmonious, yet mournful singing. I found five men singing in an area near the cathedral with stone walls encircling, adding to the beauty of their voices. They were passing around a bottle of spirits and toasting between songs, an intimate comaraderie, surely in memory of those they knew and lost. I posted a video of this on Facebook, not sure if I can upload one for the blog, but I’ll try.
Thank you, Croatia!
I read your post every time you post. Always interesting and fun to read. I am just waiting for the following book and tv series.
Loves from Dan and Rory.
A really special place for you to experience, I can tell. And I’ll be looking forward to trying that recipe 🙂