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Verona & Innsbruck
To get to Verona, we need to return to Bologna and change trains again. First thing in the morning I check the train status on both of the train apps I use in Italy. It turns out the train to Bologna is late due to an accident and we won’t make our connection to Verona. We check if there is anything earlier – there is! So we hustle down to the train station and board; no one even checks our ticket. Again, we’re grateful to be traveling light. We easily make our connection and count our blessings.
Side Note: The OMIO app is used for booking all trains anywhere, the other app is Trenitalia, just for trains in Italy. I usually book everything through OMIO, but it doesn’t always show prompt platform updates. The actual train tracking updates are better on the Trenitalia app.
Our hotel is too far to walk, so we grab a cab, sit back and get our first look at Verona. Our lodging is spacious, but like most hotels we’ve seen in Europe (so far) the showers are tiny!
Located just across the street from the Adige River, it’s a great location for walking about and seeing the sites including the setting for the romantic tragedy Romeo & Juliet.
Side Note: Did you know Shakespeare never even visited Verona? Based on the view of Juliet’s “garden” I don’t think William missed out on much. (Second photo below).
Verona is about twice the population of Modena and they have Christmas markets galore, but seem to be more like a state fair with Christmas trees, festive nonetheless. We enjoyed the architecture and walked across town to see a display of various nativity scenes from a variety of perspectives and levels of skill. Walking this old city is pleasant…
Unless you step in dog shit. Which happened on day one, about 50m from the apartment! So the rest of that walk included viewing the architecture, seeing a nativity display and, of course, looking for grass and puddles in which to remove the shit from Tom’s shoe. I’m thinking everyone here has a dog and they could learn a lesson or two from our dog loving friends back home.
Side Note: cats roam freely everywhere in Greece. The locals feed them, maybe to help keep down rat populations? I’m not sure. We didn’t see many dogs, until arriving in Rome. In Italy we saw many folks with dogs that had them leashed and seemed to pick up after them as we never noticed poo on the sidewalks. Until Verona that is. C’mon Verona!
The next day we tour the Verona Arena, which is besieged by a sprawling Christmas market. The arena “tour” didn’t seem worth €8 but we agreed it would be an epic venue for a concert. Outside near the Christmas Markets we notice workmen assembling the famous gigantic Christmas star. Worth a return trip in the evening and which is also helping to break in my new boots. We stroll through the market food section and I notice Horse Meat is offered on several menus. Yikes! Now I’m nervous about eating any meat here! In the evening, we return to see the Christmas Star illuminated. It’s all lit up and they’re playing music. Wait, it’s jazz. Again?! Is Christmas Jazz a thing in Italy?
As you guessed, the jazz scared us off so we meander our way in the direction of our rooms with an eye out for food. Lucky us, again! Maxela is a “chain” of 5 luxury restaurants in Italy, 2 in Rome, 2 in Siena, and 1 in Verona. Our waiter is an affable chap with red hair who speaks English with a Scottish accent -I’m not making this up. It turns out Argus is from Albania, now in Italy, and has lived in several countries, notably Scotland for 2 years, thus the accent. Talk about a global trotter! We have a light dinner and promise to return.
At some point on our way back to our lodging I stepped in dog shit. My new boots! And I was just walking on the sidewalk. You must be on high alert in Verona. Stepping in shit two days in a row, what are the odds? The next day brings some much needed rain, at least for the Verona sidewalks.
At the train station we find out that Italy is having a strike (again). Luckily the conductor decides to show up for our scheduled train and we are soon on our way to Austria in a first class compartment all to ourselves. This 4 hour train ride is the one we’ve been dreaming of. We’ve decided any train travel longer than 2 or 3 hours is worth a first class ticket. We relax and enjoy watching the scenery change from olive groves and vineyards to mountains and snow. We gradually meander ever upward, to our next country. Innsbruck, Austria: capital of the Alps.
Like many places in Innsbruck, our lodging is up a steep hill. We wisely hire a taxi and we’re soon settled into our new digs, a clean and spacious place with more than enough room for us. And they have both a washer and dryer: bonus.
Side Note: If you’re planning a longish trip with carry-on-only chances are you will need to do laundry at least once. You can find apartments with compact washing machines that can wash a very small load of laundry, but finding a dryer is more of a challenge. Line drying is routine in Greece, Croatia, and Italy.
While we’re out exploring the town it starts raining cold and steady. Soon Tom is drenched. Hint: Take the umbrella! Anyway the fog and rain ruin our views and moods. Even the Christmas Market and its Swarovski Christmas tree can’t lift our spirits. A hamburger does the trick, but we still need to trudge back up the hill in the chilly rain. Our plans to visit the top of the mountain are fading as the dense fog settles in.
The next day is even colder but at least it’s not raining. We walk about the cute Old Town, grab a delicious lunch, and wander more. When we get too cold, we step inside a cafe and remind ourselves of the simple joy of a cup of hot chocolate on a blustery day.
Exploring the town gets us a bit turned around. Fortunately, it’s impossible to get lost in a city straddling a river. We decide to go up the funicular in spite of the clouds. Part way up the mountain we exit in Hungerberg and enjoy a view of Innsbruck from just a few hundred meters up. The clouds seem to lift briefly to show glimpses of the Olympic ski jump and the looming peaks around us. Nearby the ski lift gondola races further up the hill, empty. There’s no point in going higher due to the cloud cover.
By the way, the reason we ended up in Innsbruck is because we decided to scrap our initial plan to visit Cinque Terra in Italy and take the Bernina Express into the Alps. Why? After seeing Positano in November we expected the CT towns to be similarly empty and likely much worse weather. And while the BE remains in my heart’s desire, we now know that half of the trip would be in reduced visibility and the other half in darkness. But I’m already planning our next trip and the Bernina Express is first on the list!
Next up: Germany and visiting a friend we met in Fiji.
Great blog! Keep it up. I have been in Innsbruck twice, in summer, and it was terrific . . .no fog. Don’t think I have seen Tom in a beard before. I am sure it helps keep him warm. Things normal here. Wet, gray, cold. Spring only three months away.
My beard is an attempt to imitate the Alps, ie; snow capped. Save the pic cuz it will come off on my return. We have gotten much better mountain views but you’ll have to wait for the blog to catch up.
Oh That beard Tom makes for warm wise witty thinker a painting or two may be coming along
And That Joyous smile Juliene ,Says it all I am Inspired by your journey of abundant goodness
I am faithfully reading your posts.
Sorry about the dog poop… so gross! Besides that your trip with amazing sights is inspiring . As you know I am a hot chocolate girl, but as I remember the hot chocolate in Italy is very thick and heavy with chocolate. Almost like Hersheys syrup? Has this been your experience?
Anyway please keep blogging friend❤️ I love it!
Brrr… could almost hear your teeth chattering! Awesome mountain though – best enjoyed from the interior of your room.
I hope it was a memorable Christmas in all kinds of good ways. You have shared so much – a real gift to all of us. Danke
Next stop Paris for NYE?
Xxoo Margie