More pics and videos on Facebook page. You can view my first posts here at the BLOG page.
When in Rome….
We leave our nest in Split and arrive at their airport, which is immaculate and seems brand new, yet eerily desolate. The gate attendant required we check our bags into Rome, which caused me a bit of anxiety since I really worked hard to have carry-on only so as not to have an airline lose my luggage, but they insisted. Fingers crossed,
We head through security where the agent discovered my secret “biscuit butter” Sonia from Heritage Hotel Antique Split gave me, which exceeds the 100ml limitation. Dang, I’d forgotten all about it and should have put it in my suitcase, since it was checked! For some reason, she says it’s okay, just don’t open it. Lucky me!
We find our bags easily and during the transfer to our hotel, our driver gives us a couple of restaurant recommendations. After checking in, we walk to the Osteria da Fortunata which is famous for handmade pasta, with the pasta makers sitting in the restaurant rolling it out. As we walk up we see a line of at least 40 people waiting to get in. We course correct and find another place that has a 30 minute wait. Day one in Italy and we’re eating at 9PM like the locals. Great food. Tom had carbonara and I had cacio de Pepe, a local speciality.
Sunday morning we arise early, not for church, but a tour of Rome in a golf cart. I wasn’t really sure what to expect, but it turns out we were the only two in our tour. Our driver and tour guide, GianMarco, from Rome by Golf Cart, took us to many of the traditional spots and a few unusual ones as well. He was an outstanding tour guide, and very suited for us. Not only hilarious but an Art Historian as well. We saw the Big Fountain and drove all around Travestere.
Parrione Square, built over a stadium (I’d love to have seen the underground tour!). But its Flumi Fountain, also known as the Four Rivers Fountain, that intrigues me. Designed by Bernini, it is dedicated to the four main rivers of the continents through which papal authority had spread: The Nile for Africa, the Danube for Europe, the Ganges for Asia, and Rio de la Plata for the Americas. Each of the four statues representing the rivers is pointing in the direction of the source of its river. Since they did not know know the origin of the Nile at that time, the Niles head is cloaked with drapery. So no one can see his ignorance?
We stopped for an espresso and cannoli, where we stood to eat and drink like the locals. We saw the Pantheon, Trevi, the Spanish, and the colosseum.
We also saw Piazza Colonna, with the spiral tower dedicated to Marcus Aurelius, modeled after the Trejan Column. Coincidentally, the Astoria Column, built in 1926, was also modeled after the Trejan Column.
A few sites later, our heads overloaded with Roman art history, thanks to GianMarco. He dropped us in Travastere for a lunch to overload our stomachs. Later we enjoyed gelato at Fiori di Luna, so far the BEST gelato we’ve found. The blackberry with chunks of dark chocolate was worthy of a monument.
Rome is a very big city, the first we’ve been in for a while. Our last few weeks have been in (relatively) quiet spots, so being in Rome is a bit of a cold water splash in the face. We are walking a lot, I’d say 8-10 miles daily. I don’t track my steps, so it’s only a guess. There are more tourists and crowds here than we’ve seen so far and I can’t even imagine how packed it would be in the summer. Our Vatican City guide made a point of working in the summer heat, the crowds and that we “ should be not complaining “.
After our Vatican City visit ( the blog post is Here), we found a Mailboxes Etc to send home some things we no longer need to make room for some new items (yes, it’s starting to get cooler and I need a coat, hat, gloves, and scarf. Hopefully some boots). Again, we met another wonderful local. This time Luca, owner of Mailboxes Etc and Back to the Future superfan, was a pleasant encounter. He filled us with stories of his beloved Rome and was thrilled to hear we were visiting Matera, as everyone seems to be. We left as happy for the encounter with Luca as we were to be 10lbs lighter as we head to Sorrento next.
Crowded perhaps, but you wouldn’t have missed it!! Pretty remarkable that all those ruins have survived with all those people, invaders and tourists, kind of one and the same! Your heads must be spinning with sensations and information. Keep it all in there….there will be plenty of questions!! We love you
The Romans seem to have a magnificent sense of history & practicality. All the times it was destroyed or conquered they would use the rubble of the old to rebuild the new. This includes nearly every “ruin” in Rome. Truly ancient Roma is 12-20 meters below ground what is used today.
How I love Rome, and That you are there taking it in
me piace molto molto molto
i can imagine letting all high stimulation with SOOOO much history weave in your heart and psyqui will bring much goodness
Arrivederchi caros mios !!
Grazie Silvia. Wish you were here to share the views, the smells, the ancient echoes..and of course to translate for us !