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Zadar and Oregon-ish Weather
In Zadar our lodging is a little one bedroom apartment, which is cozy and feels like home. A break in the rain turns in to a beautiful sunny Friday afternoon. Exploring the waterfront, there are myriad yachts and ferries, likely moored to wait out the storm. Finally we find the pedestrian bridge to Old Town. We cross the Jazine Harbour and we’re back in time 500 years.
November just after a rain storm is the perfect time to explore Old Town Zadar. The streets are nearly empty and the lighting is magical. We peer into shop windows and closed museums then wend our way to the western edge of the Old Town peninsula. The Sea Organ, an architectural art sound object, emits an eerie song. You’ll have to visit our Facebook page to see/hear the sea organ video. Nearby is the Greeting to the Sun installation, an array of small solar panels that are embedded in the boardwalk. After dusk it shines with a magical display of lights.
As we make our way back through the narrow streets and alleys, we notice the small, quaint Trattoria Mediterraneo. Tom sees pizza on the menu so that’s good enough for us.
The Spaghetti all’ Amattriciana was delicious and Tom’s pizza was pretty good too. Neven Lemic, the co-owner, is kind and welcoming and we hit it off. He tells us about the busy months, when the restaurant expands to accommodate the throngs of tourists. Today, only the smaller of the two seating areas is open with just five tables, a perfectly cozy spot for us. After dinner we meander back to the apartment, passing a boisterous wedding party crossing the bridge. Croatians have fun weddings!
The next day we find another self-serve laundry and are happy to have all clean clothes again. Saturday morning chores are done. We walk back to Old Town looking for the Bistro our host recommended. We find it, but it’s an hour wait for a table. Nope, too hungry. So we keep looking and wandering and actually end up back at Trattoria Mediterraneo again. The restaurant is empty so we take a table and wait to see if Neven comes in and remembers us.
He does. The conversation picks up where we left it the day before. One of the nicest things about traveling in the off season is encountering people like Neven. He talks about the crush of tourists in the summer and says it’s nice to have time to actually chat with diners. We discuss olive oil and he informs us that the best olive oils leave a hot sensation in the throat. Who knew?
So, when you visit Zadar, do yourself a favor : dine at Trattoria Mediterraneo and tell Neven hello from us!
The next day brings thunderstorms, so getting a meal means a walk in the rain. No, not Trattoria Mediterraneo again. Exploring Old Town a bit more cautiously since it’s drizzling and the stone alleys can be slippery. We find the place Neven recommended, next to the park in Five Wells Square. Pet Bunara is beautiful inside and very cozy. We have an excellent meal and even linger over a midday dessert, hoping to avoid the downpour.
There are museums and other sites we were not able to visit. Zadar’s ancient Old Town deserves more time in anyone’s visit tom Croatia.
Next up, a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage site Plitvice Lakes National Park….
Happy to know that after 2 months of meanderings you are still charmed by the quaintness of ‘old towns’ and the congeniality of people everywhere. Such a refreshing contrast to the world news.
And you’re ambassadors of good will —we
need that!
xo
Love all the restaurants that are chosen because they have Pizza on the menu 🤓